Jewelry Designer Judy Evans gained national and international prominence in 1978 after winning the prestigious Johnson Matthey Platinum Design Competition. Since that time, she has continued to dominate competitions around the world and is widely considered one of the most accomplished of America's fine jewelry designers.

In a speech recently delivered at the Platinum Day Symposium, entitled Evolution of a Design, Ms. Evans detailed her affinity for Platinum, her varied creative inspirations, and the design process involved in the launch of her exciting new Diana Couture Collection for Fall 1999.  The following Questions andAnswers have been gathered from that speech of March 27, 1999.

Q. Where Did You Get Your Start as a Jewelry Designer?

A. I was introduced to the art of jewelry design through an unusual course in high school which focused on making a living through creative pursuits. That class piqued my interest in the craft, and I decided to major in jewelry design at Iowa State University, where I earned a Bachelor of Arts degree. Directly after graduation, I began my career as a professional jewelry designer.

Q. Where Do Your Ideas Come From?

A. I get my ideas from everywhere. I'm extremely prolific. Everything I see gets processed in my brain and comes out in various forms in my work. Movement is a big influence for me. I found that my appreciation for intricate movement translated effectively into my jewelry design.
I envision a piece and sketch it freehand. I keep a portfolio of all my sketches from the past 20+ years and find it extremely useful as a reference, a source of inspiration.  My designs are recognizable, but I try to create new variations so that my work remains fresh and surprising.

Q. How Do You Execute Your Designs? 

A. I always design with hand painted renderings and I never use a computer.  I prefer to do it the old fashioned way, with pencil, paper and paint. That's what works best for me. I am well known in the industry for my renderings.

Q. As a Designer What are Your Signature Elements?

A. I am recognized for several unique design elements. The first is the "surprise stone," which is intended to be just that, a surprise. It can be described as a gemstone placed in an unusual place, usually on the side of a piece of jewelry. Another technique I've become very well known for is the "square shank," which serves as a counterbalance so that a ring stays upright. The benefit of utilizing this feature is the comfort factor, ensuring that the ring rests comfortably on the finger. I've also become known for designs featuring what I call the "capture." This is a visual device making a piece of jewelry appear as if the opposite sides of the ring are bound together under the center stone.  This design element can be manifested in simple or more complex methods. One example of a more complex approach is to utilize pavé sides or channel set sides.  The "capture" technique can be seen throughout the new Diana Couture Collection.  My personal style is to accent the center stone and in turn have the center stone accent the design. I avoid using conventional crowns to set the stones and prefer rather that the setting mechanism be an integral part of the design. My approach to design is rather holistic. I believe that no one part of a ring is more important than another. For me, comfort always dictates style to a large degree. I routinely set my center stones no higher than necessary and few are set with prongs so that rings won't catch on clothing. I know other women, especially those wearing my designs, appreciate that detail as much as I do.

Q. What Comes First - The Center Stone or The Design?

A. There is no simple answer to this question. Earlier, I did a lot of work with one-of-a-kind gemstones. When you do that, the stone will dictate the setting and design. When I design bridal jewelry, I'm working with diamonds, known commodities, so the process can begin with the design. I use both approaches in my work.

Q. Why Do You Work So Often With Platinum?

A. I've always appreciated the beauty and versatility of Platinum.  The jewelry buying public's increasing awareness of Platinum's strength and longevity has created a great demand.  It's considered the perfect medium for bridal jewelry, due in large part, to its durability.
I like Platinum's icy coolness, which works exceptionally well with diamonds.  Platinum adds weight to even a dainty piece of jewelry, without adding to its size or bulk.  The metal lends itself to fine details without becoming fragile. It's perfect for setting diamonds because of its tensile strength and neutral color.

Q . Who Do You Design For?

A. Women are buying more fine jewelry for themselves. Women aged 25-50 are my average customers. They're urban or suburban women, usually well-educated and confident with a well-developed sense of style. When they wear fine jewelry, it's often as evidence of their personal success.
Designer Judy Evans creates jewelry by maintaining an awareness of her surroundings,
being influenced by everything she sees, and then translating these images in her breathtaking designs. Her extensive use of Platinum has served to re-introduce the precious metal to the masses, making her not only a designer of impressive abilities, but one with a positive and important influence on the industry.
 

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Evolution of A Design
Judy Evans
Featured Designer, Diana Couture

This is an abbreviated version of the original work. For full technical details, please consult the original paper.